51 rUSSIAN BEEr j Baltika Breweries is the largest beer maker in Russia, and their beers are available throughout Little Russia. Each bottle has a large number printed on the label — you purchase them by asking for that number, but the numbers don’t represent alcohol content. Here’s what each one means: #3: Classic lager, 4.8%. A basic pale lager, a little better than mass-produced Korean beer. #4: Original, 5.6%. A red/brown beer, similar to a honey brown. This was the favorite for most of us. #6: Porter, 7%. A very dark and strong porter, but crisper than most black beers. #7: Lager Export, 5.4%. A pale lager that is virtually tasteless. Probably our least favorite. #8: Wheat, 5%. Like a Hoegaarden or similar weizen beer, though a little less citrusy. #9: Strong lager, 8%. A powerful lager with a clean, strong taste. Be careful with this one. As for the other numbers, there is no #1, and #0 (a nonalcoholic beer) and #2 (pale) are not commonly found in Korea. GETTING THErE c Samarqand and My Friend are on the same street, outside Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station, exit 5. From street level, turn right and cross the little street, then take a left on Gwanghuidong 1(il)-ga. You’ll see both restaurants. To get to Gostiny Dvor, walk out exit 7 of the same station and double back to the right. The restaurant is down the frst alley on the left.