June 2014July 2014 Itaewon freedom Reflections on a restaurant Get your garden growing may 2014 The women’s issue The art of the tease From Seoul to Chuncheon on a bike Down the Marmot’s Hole More than cod Urban exploration Cover photo by Douglas macDonald Design by park Seong-eun O u R P a S T T H R E E I S S u E S Between the volcanic eruptions and the Japanese invasion, Jeju is a portrait of cultural survival under fire — literally and figuratively. But it’s more than just water that separates Jeju’s island way of life from the mainland. The nuances of the community’s dialect, memorial sites and unique fishing practices have earned it multiple UNESCO designations for possessing distinct cultural assets that merit preservation. Writer Ian Henderson took in the island’s sights from off the beaten path, exploring the less polished — but no less picturesque — side of Jeju Island. C O V e R Read the story on page 46. An oasis out of the ashes