With numerous gift, souvenir and clothing stores at Sinjang Mall, you’ll have your hands full of things to do until 1 a.m. (the military curfew), when most establish- ments close down for the night. Before final call on almost any evening, though, you’ll find a lone Korean ajumma hawking bouquets of flowers. Buy some for yourself or your main squeeze, and then get a good night’s sleep. You’ll want to rest up before tomorrow’s big draw: Market Day. Since 1995, every calendar day ending in four or nine has been designated a Market Day, regardless of the day (or holiday) it falls on. Behind the post office, a 15-minute walk from the air base, you’ll find fresh produce from near- by farms lining the streets and others from as far away as China. (Keep in mind, however, that most of the Chinese products have a bad reputation due to reports of contaminat- ed preservatives.) During warm weather months keep an eye out for odd- ball items like exotic, bril- liantly colored birds inside equally beautiful cages sold alongside those for eating — Japanese button quail deep-fried in a skillet makes a nice midday snack. Fueled and ready, you can choose how to spend the afternoon. There’s Ojwa-dong, home to the shrine honoring mid-15th-century homeboy hero Lord Su- seong, or Mangisa Temple and its impressive iron Buddha. (Just don’t drink from the public fountains, as many of them are contaminated.) But if shrines and temples aren’t your thing, you can swing over to the Jinwi River Recreation Area. Admission is reasonable (about 5,000 won for adults), there’s plenty of park- ing and the facilities are impressively well maintained. Construction for the park began in 2000 in order to give residents the opportunity to cool off during sum- mers, as Jinwi River is far too dirty to swim in. There are several lovely swimming pools and refreshment stands, and a self-pedaling trolley car ride on the near- by train tracks. It’s fun for kids and adults alike, but bring a swimming cap — the lifeguards insist upon it. If the weather isn’t swim-worthy, then try a hike. Mu- bong is a good place to start: Snap a photo of the sign- board map with your phone, plot your trek and head for the hills. They cover a widely forested area, but don’t worry, you won’t get lost; trails are well frequented with many informational placards. Mubong is more arduous than its 682-foot summit indicates, yet the open-air pavilion at the top is well worth the effort. There’s also plenty of hiking and biking on Buraksan Trail. Buraksan’s main entrance is on the left side of Route 1 heading south in central Songtan, near the three-story Buraksan Barley Rice restaurant. The trail runs longitudinally across the ridgeline of Buraksan and is an easier hike than Mubong, making it very pop- ular and crowded year-round. Keep in mind, however, that many turn back at Heunchi Rest Area about 2.5 kilometers in, so if you need a break from people you’ll be able to continue on in virtual solitude. But before you do, hit up the food stand at the far end of the rest area, toward Eco-Bridge, for a cup of hot yam tea. It’ll be the best you’ve ever had (the woman who runs it is a pro — she calls herself the Buraksan coffee ajumma). After your big hike, head over to greater Songtan’s best-kept culinary secret: Italiano Restaurant, open daily from noon to 9 p.m. Here, you can get the best home-cooked Italian meal for your money in Korea, which includes wine, soup, salad, entree and either coffee or green tea for only 15,000 won. An after-din- ner stroll around the restaurant grounds will bring your perfect meal to a close, and the singing rooms near Pyeongtaek City Hall’s Songtan Annex serve as an ex- cellent night cap. At twilight, the area lights up like the Las Vegas strip, with neon signs beckoning you and your friends to belt out your best solos all night long. 71 during warm weather months you’ll fnd oddball items like exotic, brilliantly colored birds inside equally beautiful cages sold alongside those for eating — Japanese button quail deep-fried in a skillet makes a nice midday snack. GETTING THERE Buses run all day from Nambu Bus Terminal. The journey costs around 4,000 won and takes 40 to 60 minutes, depending on traffc. You can also take the subway directly to Songtan Station (line 1). GETTING To ITALIANo RESTAURANT Go straight east on the highway opposite Jinwi Station along the Jinwi River for about 300 meters past the entrance to the Mt. Mubong complex; it’s hidden on the right.