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41 One of Korea’s most common stews, kimchi jjigae is made with tofu, scallions, onions, garlic and, of course, kimchi. After the kimchi is sliced, it is put into a pot with all the ingredients, boiled with water or anchovy stock and seasoned with bean paste and hot pepper paste. The result is a rich, sour, salty, hearty soup that stands out as one of the best Korean dishes, period. It comes piping hot in a stone pot, often served with rice and other side dishes. While you’ll find this staple in countless restaurants around Seoul, one established place that specializes in the stew is called Gwanghwa- mun Jip. It’s located downtown, near Gyeongbok Palace. GettinG there Walk out Gwanghwamun Station, exit 1, and make an immediate U-turn. Just south of the exit there’s an intersection. After crossing the intersection, on the same side of the street, you’ll find a small alley. Gwanghwamun Jip is in the alley. Otherwise known as potato or pork bone soup, this one is my all-time favorite. The perfect soup for a cold day, it has a spicy flavor, hearty ingredients and a deep red color that comes from the chili pepper. It’s comprised of meaty pork bones, sesame leaves, ground sesame seed, potatoes, kimchi, mushrooms, green onions and other ingredients, which are slowly boiled down in front of you until the meat softens. The dish is often served without potatoes (creating con- stant contention around the name), though when they’re included, they’re one of my favorite parts. You have to work hard for this stew, as chopsticks are needed to remove the meat from the bone, but it’s oh, so worth it. There are several gamjatang restaurants in the neighbor- hood around Yongsan Station. GettinG there Seobuk Wonjo Gamjatang is one of the better known places in Yongsan; it’s right across the street from Sinyongsan Station, exit 4. Kimchi JJigae gamJaTang