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www.groovekorea.com / July 2014 6 I ’ve been in Korea for 14 years, and 13 of them have been spent in roughly the same spot, just a few minutes’ walk from Itaewon Station. The main strip and adjoining streets may be buzzing with people, but when you start heading into the alleyways, things quiet down. Our little neighborhood is a rela- tively peaceful, slightly decrepit sanctuary, just a few steps from where the action happens. We live under the towering presence of Yongsan-gu Office — the giant, glittering trapezoid that sprung up a few years ago — itself a reminder that Itaewon is changing. The district is in flux and our neighborhood may soon be gone. The villa we once called home now has a craft beer bar occupying the ground floor, the local butcher gave way to a nail parlor, the rice seller morphed into a boutique and the video store has been succeed- ed by a series of ill-fated cafes. Itaewon is not what it used to be. Back in the early 2000s Itaewon was less about fine dining, vintage clothes and fancy beers, and more about leather goods and heavy drinking with a side of salaciousness. It had a wild reputation not helped by the Burger King murder of ‘97, and it could be difficult to persuade friends that it was a safe place to visit. If you were out after 9 p.m. you probably wouldn’t get into too much trouble, though Itaewon certainly felt more dangerous than other parts of Seoul. I have seen a fair few casualties on the streets and occasionally run into the odd nasty piece of work, but I’m still in one piece and happy to report that our neighborhood is much safer than it used to be — even though you might still have to pick your way through the broken bot- tles, semi-conscious English teachers and pudd les of vomit on a Sunday morning. Itaewon is constantly changing, with its grimy, small-town charm gradually being replaced with gourmet restaurants and big-brand clothing or cosmetics shops. As each old shop falls by the wayside, there’s a trendy bistro or a fashionable fran- chise waiting to step in. I worry that the future for our area will be similar to that of Insa-dong. The places that give Itaewon character may be priced out of the market, and all that will be left will be a collection of uncharacteristic coffee shops, ugly outlet stores and overpriced hamburger franchises. I’ve loved my 13 years in Itaewon, and I’m grateful to the community of residents who still surround me and to the shop- keepers, bartenders and restaurateurs who help give Itaewon its personality. But I’m not sure how long I’ll be able to stay here. Our small town is turning into a full-blown tourist attrac- tion. Chances are that our homes will have to make way for new cafes, and it’ll be time to move elsewhere. I have fond memories of the Itaewon of the past, I’m grateful for the Itaewon of the present, but I fear for the Itaewon of the future. Yongsan-gu Office stands as a monument to what the coming years may bring, and perhaps a sign of what the govern- ment wishes for Itaewon to become. I still prefer the ramshackle rows of houses and shops behind it, and I hope that no matter what happens, we can still keep some of our grimy small-town charm without becoming a characterless Gangnam clone. For the time being, Itaewon is still my home. Food Smoothie party! Cool, healthy, powerful, sexy. This is your body on smoothies. Not only are they the absolute mecca of refreshment when the pavement outside your window shimmers with heat and the trees sag under humidity sent from the devil, they’re also an awesome way to pump whole raw food into your system without having to gnaw on uncooked vegetables and yet another apple. If you’re working extra hard this summer to keep away the jiggle, they’re also the perfect thing to fill you up without making your shorts tight. Everyone wins! Column by Shelley DeWees next up: auguSt 2014 To comment, email editor@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL My Itaewon By Paul Matthews, resident editorial Through its many transformations, the town is still my home Music & arts Luna Lee: gayageum goes contemporary The gayageum’s silken strings have a distinctly Eastern twang, even when they’re embracing modern music. The instrument has been amassing scores of views on YouTube thanks to an innovative young musician named Luna. Her modern pop and rock songs played on this historic instrument create a unique and captivating sound. Her recent album “Luna by Luna” consists of both cover songs and orig- inals, including renditions of songs by Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd, Air and Ryuichi Sakamoto. Luna carefully selected the album’s featured songs to showcase the gayageum’s distinctive sound. Column by Sophie Boladeras